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FlatspecGarment spec sheets

Step 02Chat

Start from something that already fits

The most reliable brief in clothing is a garment you own and like the fit of. Measure it flat, give us the numbers, and we map them onto the standard points.

Two things come out of this that a list of numbers on its own does not have: the measurements you did not take, and a clear line between what you measured and what we worked out.

Example promptTyped by the user

I have a shirt I own that fits the way I want. I measured it flat and got these numbers: chest 57, length 71, shoulder 51, sleeve 58. Turn this into a spec I can send, and tell me which measurements I'm missing.

Four numbers is a normal starting point. A factory needs roughly three times that.

01What comes back

Mapped, gapped, and marked

Reference mapping — returned fields
FieldWhat it holds
mapped[]Your numbers matched to standard measurement points, with the method sentence attached to each so the next person measures it the same way.
missing[]Standard points you did not measure. Each says whether it can reasonably be derived from what you gave, or whether you need to go back to the garment with a tape.
is_inferredNever mergedSet on any value we derived rather than received. It stays set through grading, through the diagrams and into the export.
assumptions[]What we assumed in order to derive anything — for example, that the garment was measured flat rather than around.
mapped[] and missing[] — combined view, sample size M
MeasurementcminchToleranceWhere it is taken
Half chest57.022 1/2± 1.0Measured flat, 2.5 cm below the armhole, side seam to side seam. Taken from your measurement.
Body length, CB71.028± 1.0Measured from the centre back neck seam straight down to the hem edge. Taken from your measurement.
Shoulder to shoulder51.020 1/8± 0.6Measured across the back, shoulder seam point to shoulder seam point. Taken from your measurement.
Sleeve length58.022 7/8± 0.6Measured from the shoulder seam point along the top of the sleeve to the cuff edge. Taken from your measurement.
Armhole, straightInferred26.010 1/4± 0.5Derived from chest and shoulder using a common ratio for this fit. Check it against the garment.
Hem sweepInferred59.023 1/4± 1.0Derived by assuming a straight side seam below the armhole. If the garment flares, this is wrong.
Cuff widthNot derivable. Measure the cuff on the garment, along its edge, buttoned.
Collar stand heightNot derivable. Measure at centre back from the neck seam to the top fold.
Neck openingNot derivable. Measure the collar band from buttonhole centre to button centre.

02Inferred is not measured

Derived values stay visibly separate

A derived number in a spec sheet is a guess with a decimal point on it. It is useful, and it is not the same as something you checked with a tape.

  • Marked at the point of creation

    The moment a value is derived rather than received, it carries the inferred flag. Nothing has to be remembered later.

  • Marked in the interface

    A dashed outline and the word inferred, not colour alone — the distinction survives a black and white printout and a screen reader.

  • Marked in the export

    The PDF carries it too, so the person reading it in a production room sees it without being told.

  • Cleared by you, not by us

    Type a measured value over it and the flag goes. Nothing clears it automatically, and no amount of downstream editing quietly launders it.

Next: grade it across the run

Two rectangles side by side, one with a solid black outline and one with a dashed red outline, on grid paper.
Solid outline: measured. Dashed outline: derived. The same distinction runs through the tables, the diagrams and the export.

What we will not do with your numbers

  • Round them to look tidier than they are.
  • Convert to inches and discard the centimetre value. Both are kept.
  • Fill a gap silently to make the table look complete.
  • Tell you which gaps matter most for a quote.